Typical problems with stage floor finishes arise from the paint not bonding to the base wood material. After numerous repaints, all you are doing is trying to get paint to stick to paint. The first (and very messy) step is to sand the floor down to the original decking material (and maybe leaving a bit of the original paint slightly showing so you don't remove too much of the decking material. A commercial floor refinishing company can probably do this better than you can do it yourself, and you can stipulate in the contract that they seal-off the seating chamber and other stage doors so that the dust does not migrate out and soil the other parts of the building. Removing (or at least bagging the drapes in-place) is highly recommended. After 8 years, if they are not IFR (Inherently Fire Resistant), they are probably due for a cleaning and re-treatment of the Fire Retardant, so this is a good time to get this done.
Many people use Rosco Tough Prime Black for their stages, but it is generally NOT a long-term durable finish, and will require repainting every few years (Read: time and money and down-time), particularly if you paint scenery directly on the black floor (more on that below).
For a long-term durable finish you should consider a two-part epoxy type paint (requires good ventilation!). This type of paint may have a separate primer that is applied to prepare the wood to adhere the final top coat of paint. This is what gives you a good bond so it won't chip and peal. Sherwin Williams ArmorSeal 8100 Epoxy Floor Coating in emerald satin black works well.
If your floor top decking has become soft (or was maybe not too hard to begin with), then the decking material may be part of the problem. Some floors get constructed with generic 'junk' MDF like you get from the big-box wood suppliers. This puffs-up and flakes apart as it gathers moisture and physical abuse. If this is the case, then rather than sanding the floor, re-decking the top 'sacrificial layer' with a high density MDF (4500 psi Modulus of Rupture / MOR, or higher) will provide you with a deck that can last 20-40 years, or more if taken care of. This is special order material, not something you can just run down to the store an buy - it must be specifically ordered and there are a limited number of manufacturers.
As to painting scenery or spilling paint on the stage floor -- DON'T DO IT. For general painting of scenery and set pieces, be sure to put-down plastic drop cloths to protect the floor just as if it were some expensive antique. NO EXCEPTIONS. If you need a different look for the stage floor as a scenic element (say, a yellow brick road), then purchase scenic muslin / canvas in broad loom width (it comes in 20-30 foot widths) and paint that, preferably in the shop, NOT ON THE STAGE. If you don't have an area large enough to paint it that is off of the stage, then put down plastic drop cloths before you paint it as the paint will soak through the fabric. You can remove the plastic drop cloths before you gaffer tape (NOT Duct Tape) the floor scenery down so the drop does not have a slippery layer under it. YES, THIS COSTS MORE MONEY THAN PAINTING DIRECTLY ON THE FLOOR, but, in the long run, it saves time and money as the stage floor may not need to be refinished for 10 or more years if taken care of (all it should need is a damp mop). Remember that other departments need to have a clean looking floor that is not distracting to the audience, so it really isn't yours to muck-up. Explain to the Administration that this is similar to a basketball / gym floor and they may understand as they typically try to everything they can do to protect that clear-coated pine or maple floor. This is no different except it is black. Include a clause in your venue's rental contract that clearly stipulates that NO PAINTING ON THE STAGE IS PERMITTED (with a resulting fee / charge to cover the cost of un-doing said violation(s)).
A side benefit to the scenic drop covering the floor is that if you have one of those light-colored stained wood stage aprons that architects love so much, you can now cover it up with your temporary scenic drop so it isn't so visually disruptive. If you play your cards right, you can get the floor painting contractor to paint over that fancy annoying floor with black to match the rest of the stage. It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask to paint over the fancy floor. If they complain, just explain to them that you really had everyone's best interest at heart. Regardless of the presentation, you want the audience to be looking at the presenter (lecturer, band, choir, etc.) rather than to be looking at the floor. They'll get over it.
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Erich Friend
Theatre Consultant
Teqniqal Systems
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Original Message:
Sent: 05-09-2018 07:19
From: Kenneth Smith
Subject: Stage floor paint
Does anyone know what a good stage floor paint would be? We have tried so many varieties over the years, but nothing seems to be as good as the original paint job when we opened our new auditorium eight years ago. Since then, we paint the stage floor for specific shows, and then afterwards we paint it back to basic black. We have let it cure for sometimes as much as a month before it is used again, but one band concert (or whatever) later and it is chipped and scuffed and nasty looking again. Please help!
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Kenneth Smith,
English/Drama Teacher
Yearbook & Newspaper Advisor Theater Producer Auditorium Asst. Manager
Lakewood High School
7223 Velte Rd. Lake Odessa, MI 48849