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When building a permanent set that does not attach to the stage, what are some things you might suggest to insure that the set can't accidentally tip over if someone bumps into it?  I am being overly cautious here but working with kids, you never know.  The set is properly braced but is there something I could use to put extra weight on the bases?  

There are lots of things you can do, but it all depends on what the set is and how it's built. Can you give us more info, or a couple of photos?

Hello Bernadette,

We too have similar issues with one of our stages. We build stage weight containers to help weigh down the set. We also use sand bags on the cross bracing for security. Depending on the size of the set, I've found as you tie the pieces together you have little movement. If you have some pictures of the set, that would help.

Best of Luck!!

Decided to go ahead and attach them to the stage, it's really on about 8 little holes.  I'll just fix them when I'm done.  Thanks for the help!

I understand that you have already resolved your issue, so here is some information for others that have encountered this requirement.

Web Search for the term 'improved stage screw'.  This is s system of equipment designed to facilitate the insertion of a good quality anchor into the stage deck while not making significant holes.  The insert is a machined metal sleeve that has wood cutting threads on the exterior (to get a good grip in the decking) and a machine-thread cut into the inside to facilitate the securing of your scenery with conventional machine bolts.  This is typically much stronger than just screwing into the stage floor with a wood screw or lag bolt, and certainly much less damaging.  The key to the better pull-out strength is that it should be as long as practical and engage with as many layers of the floor decking as possible.  Note that there is no strength in the top 1/4" 'sacrificial' high density pressboard layer (sometimes incorrectly referred to a 'meso', or 'Masonite').  Getting the insert to bite into the full thickness of the 1-2 layers of plywood subflooring or the hardwood tongue-and-groove top and the plywood subfloor below it is critical to the strength of the anchor.  These types of anchors are not appropriate for concrete floors.

The machined fittings can either remain in the floor and be capped with a flush-fitting bolt - something with a female socket head (star drive, square drive, hex drive) - or it can be extracted and used again somewhere else.  If extracted, the remaining hole can be plugged with a piece of hardwood dowel rod glued in-place.

The other alternative mentioned was Stage Weights.  I recommend the use of soft sided weights over plate steel, cast steel, or self-made containers filled with concrete or metal.  This is because the weights can get dropped while they are being handled, or get 'launched' through the air should the toppling leverage overcome the ballast effectiveness.  Even resting in place as a static weight, the hard weight types present trip hazards and possible injuries to toes and shins.

Actors and technicians don't always wear protective footwear (steel toed work shoes), nor do they 'watch where they are going', so anything you can do to reduce the potential to impact the weights is generally a good idea.  Aesthetically, the soft weights tend to be a bit more forgiving when people or scenery run into them - so you don't hear the clank or thud in the audience, and possibly the follow-up expletives . . .

Canvas bags are available commercially, and they typically have carry handles to ease moving them around.  Even a 40 pound soft bag will do little damage to a bare foot if it get dropped on it - the same can't be said for even a 10 pound steel stage weight.  The 'saddle bag' type is common, yet not the only shape.  Doughnut shaped weight bags are useful for setting around a mic stand base (round or tripod type) to give it a bit more stability

Weight Bags are available in a variety of colors, and black is popular, however, they typically shouldn't be used where they are going to be visible to the audience, so choosing a bright color is recommended (you can always wrap it in a piece of black fabric if it is going to be in a place visible to the audience).  If you are using them to stabilize equipment that may be out in the audience area (light trees, mic/speaker stands, follow spotlight or camera tripods, etc.), then you DO want them visible so someone doesn't trip over them.

Rubber Tire Inner Tubes can be used to build make-shift ballast bags.  It is typical to cut a car or truck inner tube into four quadrants, and then clamp the ends shut with some 1x2 hardwood blocks and bolts.  Folding over the end of the tube once before clamping it will reduce leakage.  Inner tubes are typically filled with sand as they can split open if loaded with steel shot (too much weight).  A small inner tube, like is used for a lawn-wagon, filled with sand can be made into a doughnut type weigh bag.

Filler materials.  The soft weigh bags you buy or build do NOT come with anything in them (it would make the shipping costs too high):

• Lead:  NO.  DO NOT USE.  Lead is a toxic material that should not be handled.  It is not appropriate for use around children or in schools.
• Steel Shot:  It is available both unplated and plated.  Although the unplated shot is typically less expensive, it is not recommended as it will attract moisture in the air and rust.  Eventually the rust dust will leak out of the bags and can stain scenery, floors, and anything else it touches. The plated steel shot will generally not rust.  As to size, it really doesn't matter too much, so whatever you can get a good deal on is the way to go.  Just about anything from 1/8" diameter up to 3/8" diameter works well.  Shot that is larger than 3/8" diameter makes the bags a bit lumpy and they can be a little noisier (imagine the sound of marbles rolling around).  Be careful when transferring the bulk material to the weight bags as spilled material rolls everywhere and can present a significant fall hazard should someone step on a cluster of it.
• Sand or Pea Gravel:  This is not as dense per unit volume, so the weight bags are not as effective at their job, however, the material is dirt cheap.  The natural dirt and dust that accompanies the raw material can harbor biological debris, so washing it in a well-ventilated area (or outdoors) in a solution of bleach is recommended, otherwise it can begin to stink (Be sure to dry the material before installing it in the weight bags, as any moisture in it will eventually leach out and can stain the floor).